Early May is always magical for Mary Julia Kaiser. The celebrated milliner is the creative mind behind Derbyologie, specializing in handcrafted hats and fascinators for the Kentucky Derby and beyond. Fashioned from silky fabrics, delicate feathers, and cascades of stylized blossoms, these one-of-a-kind pieces are the ultimate accessory for a day of fanfare and fun. Glean inspiration for your own Derby style from Mary Julia’s expert tips below and learn more about her fabulous creations in our May/June 2025 issue.
Be adventurous.
Don’t be afraid to try something new! “Go bolder than you think, not that there’s anything wrong with going simple and graceful,” Mary says, noting that out-of-towners often find simpler hats to be a tad underwhelming once they arrive at the Derby. “Go big and find something that’s maybe a little bit out of your comfort zone,” she adds.
Explore the possibilities to create a comfortable look.
Keep in mind the variety of ways you can wear a headpiece, and put together your whole outfit with versatility in mind. “I created this piece that goes underneath [the design], so you can wear it with a headband, with a cord, or with a clip,” Mary says. “You can play with all three options at home and figure out what fits the best, what feels the most secure and isn’t going to wobble around.”
Make a statement—together.
Coordinate your look with your spouse or date for a fun matching look. Pick a pocket square or mini bouquet for your partner’s suit that echoes your hat or fascinator. While they aren’t in her web store yet, Mary Julia often crafts such accoutrements for her customers.
Allow yourself flexibility (and the chance to change your mind).
“I personally love options. When I travel, I pack big because options are crucial!” says Mary. She encourages those traveling to Louisville, Kentucky, for the Derby to bring a diverse range of outfits and accessories. “For some people less is more, and for others more is more,” she says.
Whether you pick the outfit first or fashion your ensemble around a fabulous chapeau, you are sure to wear a smile and have a great time. “It’s so fun to see how people light up when they put a hat on,” Mary says. “It’s totally an instant fun factor.”
Photography by Shelby Street Studios
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