By Karen Callaway
Photography by John O’Hagan
Tucked among the bends of the Tennessee River, under the sheltering embrace of Lookout and Signal Mountains, lies the “Scenic City” of Chattanooga. With incredible vistas in every direction, the town has more than earned its nickname. In the last 20 years, the long-popular area attractions of Rock City, Ruby Falls, and the Chattanooga Choo Choo have been joined by the Tennessee Aquarium, the Riverwalk, and a revitalized downtown that has become the blueprint for other cities to follow. From the eclectic boutiques of Frazier Avenue and NorthShore to the upscale stores of Warehouse Row and Southside, great retail experiences abound. And when you’ve worked up an appetite sightseeing and shopping, restaurant choices are plentiful—whether you’re craving barbecue or bon cuisine.
Chattanooga also boasts a fascinating history. It was home to early American Indian civilizations and epic Civil War battles, and during the industrial boom of the late-19th century, the city earned the moniker “Dynamo of Dixie.” A number of historic neighborhoods and structures still stand, tributes to genteel bygone days. The University of Tennessee at Chattanooga sits on a rise near the center of town, its lovely, tree-lined campus echoing the charms of the city below. The school, as well as Chattanooga itself, offers students a chance to live and learn in an exciting—and enchanting—environment.
Historical structures and attractions still stand throughout Chattanooga. Visitors can take a ride on the Tennessee Valley Railroad or a spin on the antique carousel at Coolidge Park. The Read House Historic Inn and Suites, constructed in 1926, is filled to the brim with opulent features, like marble-inlaid terrazzo floors, carved and gilded woodwork, black walnut paneling, and gorgeous Waterford chandeliers that are suspended from 25-foot ceilings in the hotel’s Silver Ballroom. Guests enjoy the best of both worlds—luxurious, modern-day amenities in an elegantly restored setting.
See & Do
Tennessee Aquarium
Since the Aquarium opened in 1992, it has participated in conservation and research programs that help to keep the balance of biodiversity throughout the Southeast area. From sharks to seahorses, crabs to cuttlefish, toads to turtles—the Tennessee Aquarium is a world of underwater wonder. Where else can you experience the Rivers of the World, Delta Swamp, and Penguin’s Rock all under one roof? Come prepared to pet stingrays and sturgeons, enjoy the diving antics of penguins (like the little guy shown right), and leave with a whole new respect—and love—for the creatures of the deep.
Houston Museum of Decorative Arts
According to city lore, there was no one quite like Anna Safley Houston. The eccentric antiques dealer amassed an amazing personal collection of Victorian antiques, including the largest assemblage of glass pitchers in the world. She also “collected” husbands—nine in all. Though her later years were spent in poverty, she steadfastly refused to sell any of her treasures. Instead she donated the collection to the city of Chattanooga, and they are now displayed in a spacious Victorian home in the Bluff View Art District. Annie’s enormous assortment of cranberry glass fills the shelving above the front hall staircase and artfully spills into other rooms as well.
Hunter Museum of American Art
Winslow Homer, Thomas Hart Benton, and Mary Cassatt are just a few of the artists whose works grace the galleries at Hunter Museum of American Art. With a focus on American art that spans from the Colonial period to the present, the museum is housed in a historic Classic Revival-style mansion with a modern addition that overlooks the Tennessee River below. The mansion retains its original grandeur—hand-carved woodwork, gleaming sconces and chandeliers, and details inherent to the time period in which it was built, such as egg-and-dart molding and acanthus leaf motifs—while the 2005 addition offers sleek, cutting-edge architecture.
Shop & Explore
Two North Shore is also home to Bill Shores Frames & Gallery, established in 1944 by its namesake sign painter and framer. The iconic shop has enjoyed a remarkable run of more than six decades. Kathy Reed bought the business in 2000 and has filled the gallery with the art of Cherokee and other Native American artisans, in addition to custom-made frames. Next door, a restored turn-of–the century sewing factory has been converted to a gigantic antiques emporium. Knitting Mill Antiques displays the intriguing and varied finds from more than 100 vendors and is well worth a visit.
Though B. D. Burke Interiors is known for personal design services, the cozy shop in Two North Shore is chockfull of things near and dear to ladies’ hearts. With luxury brands like Sferra and Arte Italica, this store offers shoppers true retail bliss. Once the heart of the textile district at the turn of the 20th century, Warehouse Row on Market Street is now occupied with upscale boutiques carrying everything from jewelry to home accessories. Anchoring the south end is Revival, a shop of “uncommon goods.” The Old-World-meets-City-Chic shop carries an eclectic mélange of wonderful wares, all displayed so beautifully it absolutely takes one’s breath away. Each and every cubby and corner holds a new delight to discover and another unique object to behold. This shop is a must-see!
Eat & Drink
Diners keep coming back to Rick and Nancy Adams’s Southside eatery, Southern Star, for the great food and friendly staff. Don’t leave without sampling the crisp, lacy cornbread! If you’re craving barbecue, run don’t walk to Sugar’s Ribs on Broad Street, just a few blocks from the Aquarium. This is the second location—the first is on the Ridge—and crowds at both underscore the popular demand. Big and Mini Q sandwiches, grilled okra and onions, Texas pintos—wow! Owners Lawton and Karen Haygood strive to bring excellence to Sugar’s, just as they do to their other area restaurants, Boathouse Rotisserie & Raw Bar and Canyon Grill.
Just a hop, skip, and a jump from the Aquarium, restaurant 212 Market was “green” before green was cool. Maggie Moses and her daughters, Susan and Sally, opened the eatery in 1992 on the leading edge of the resurgence of the downtown area. They have made eating healthy both fun and delicious. Diners are treated to fresh, local veggies and the finest meats from the acclaimed Sequatchie Cove Farm. The daily-changing vegetable plate is a true delight, winning patrons over to less common dishes such as kale, fennel slaw, and roasted beets.