Southern Lady Magazine

Down in the Mississippi Delta

Bridge and trees in Greenwood, Mississippi
Bridge and trees in Greenwood, Mississippi
Photo Courtesy of Greenwood Convention and Visitors Bureau

In the heart of Mississippi blues country, Greenwood’s cultural renaissance is breathing new energy into this historic small town. Hallmarks of the community’s soulful heritage and its role in the acclaimed 2011 movie The Help, plus a spirited food and retail scene, delight visitors at every turn.

Choctaw Chief Greenwood Leflore opened the Delta’s swampland to European settlers in the 1800s, and Greenwood was soon incorporated as his namesake. The area remains abundant in vegetation and wildlife thanks to its fertile, alluvial soil. Enjoy this natural splendor at the Yazoo River Trail and Arboretum, where you can wander through verdant parkland or take to the water by boat or kayak.

As part of the Mississippi Freedom Trail and the Mississippi Blues Trail, markers around town highlight significant places and people, such as musical legends like Furry Lewis, Robert Johnson, and Eddie “Guitar Slim” Jones. Less than an hour away in Cleveland, Mississippi, Dockery Farms is considered one of the most significant birthplaces of the blues with a host of renowned musicians having resided there in the early 20th century. 

More glimpses of the past take shape along Greenwood’s tree-lined Grand Boulevard. Striking historic architecture abounds amid the shade of 300 oaks planted more than a century ago. Spanning Tudor to neoclassical styles, stunning homes stand sentinel, like the one enlisted as fictional character Hilly Holbrook’s in The Help.

In the flourishing downtown district, discover businesses new and old that contribute to Greenwood’s allure. Stop by boutique vendor market Howard & Marsh Exchange for beautiful décor, accessories, and gifts.

The Mississippi Gift Company (left) brims with distinctive pieces made by artisans around the state. At Fincher’s Inc. (right), browse stylish fashions for women and children, in addition to fine home accents for the tabletop and beyond.

Tantalizing dining options range from time-tested haunts, such as The Crystal Grill (left), to contemporary ventures like Fan and Johnny’s (right), where the chefs serve up Southern favorites with a twist and display their original artwork on the walls. Turnrow Book Company boasts hand-selected reads, and it’s also home to an art gallery and a café that doubles as a casual lunch spot and venue for special events featuring authors and musicians.

Even accommodations are imbued with regional character. The modish Alluvian Hotel, named for the Delta’s rich soil, touts amenities that include a sumptuous spa and Viking Cooking School classes. Shop kitchen gadgets and linens at the Viking Retail Store across the street before dining at Giardina’s at The Alluvian, a recreated version of its predecessor that opened in 1936 on the outskirts of town.

Wherever you venture while visiting Greenwood, be sure to slow down and step in time to the town’s unhurried pace, a tempo that gently echoes the bluesy ballads of bygone days. 

Read the full story in our March/April 2020 issue. 

By Elizabeth Bonner Czapski
Photography by John O’Hagan


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