Taking place in July, a century-old pony pilgrimage made famous by a 1940s children’s book immerses visitors in the unhurried pace and pristine environs of two Virginia isles.
As brief as it is riveting, a procession of chestnut stallions, speckled mares, and silvery foals awes spectators gathered to witness the majestic Chincoteague ponies traverse the Assateague Channel’s calm, sun-dappled waters. The annual Chincoteague Pony Swim and accompanying weeklong fanfare are points of pride for the tight-knit community of Chincoteague, Virginia.
“Chincoteague Island is the commercial, residential island, and Assateague Island is the natural area where the wild ponies live,” explains Evelyn Shotwell, executive director of the Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce. “It’s not a beach with boardwalks and amusement rides. You can come for the beach, but you also have the quaint little shops that have been family owned for 30 years. All of that is part of our charm.”
Boutiques, eateries, and art galleries line historic downtown Chincoteague (pronounced shink-a-teeg), while unspoiled surrounds await on the neighboring 37-mile-long barrier island of Assateague, shared by Maryland to the north and Virginia on the southern end. “The beaches of Assateague Island offer a unique experience, as they exist primarily in an undeveloped setting,” says Michael Dixon, visitor services and outreach supervisor at the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge.
In addition to providing sanctuary for the famous ponies, the refuge protects and manages about 14,000 acres of Assateague’s sand dunes, salt marshes, and maritime forest in partnership with the National Park Service. Along with waterside recreation and trail hiking, bird-watching ranks high among popular activities.
Theories abound regarding how the small-framed horses—most of them shorter than 14 hands—came to call Assateague home, but the true story of one palomino pinto named Misty continues to lure people to Chincoteague’s annual summer pony roundup. In 1947, author and animal lover Marguerite Henry published the acclaimed children’s book Misty of Chincoteague, the first in a series of novels inspired by the festivities.
“The book has brought a lot of people to Chincoteague,” says Denise Bowden, a longtime member of the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company who helps care for the ponies. “Our event is what I call good, old-fashioned Americana that you just don’t see anywhere else in the United States.”
Onlookers gather on charter boats and by land at Veteran’s Memorial Park for the pony swim, which will take place July 27 this year at slack tide, the brief period between high and low tides when it’s easiest for the animals to cross from Assateague to Chincoteague. But no matter the season, the sister islands’ combination of small-town charm and natural beauty grants travelers a peaceful escape.
For information, visit chincoteaguechamber.com and visitesva.com.
Read the full feature in our July/August 2022 issue, available for purchase on newsstands, online, and for digital platforms.
